Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm Watch 5322G

 

A simplified alarm clock, now with a crown reduced by 75%.

Patek Philippe's exquisite craftsmanship in the realm of complicated watches is fully displayed on every level. Even with simple complications, Patek Philippe elevates them to a whole new level, a feat perfectly exemplified in the Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm Watch 5322G. Compared to the discontinued Spider-Shaped Alarm Travel Time Watch 5520P in 2019, this watch is smaller and more streamlined. It houses one of the most sophisticated alarm movements on the market within the classic Calatrava case, featuring embossed sides and a striking green and blue smoked dial.

The Patek Philippe Alarm Travel Time Watch ref. 5520, launched in 2019, was controversial from the outset due to its unique design. The combination of four crowns—three of which are actually screw-down pushers—and four lugs gives the watch an octopus-like shape. Aesthetics aside, it is Patek Philippe's first watch with an alarm function and is powered by a new, sophisticated movement.

This year, Patek Philippe has made improvements to the original design, removing the travel time function and adopting a simpler appearance, abandoning the cumbersome double-crown adjustment system. Apart from removing the travel time module, the basic movement's functionality remains unchanged.

 

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The Patek Philippe Alarm Travel Time watch ref. 5520, launched in 2019, has been controversial from the start due to its unique design. The combination of four crowns—three of which are actually screw-down pushers—and four lugs gives the watch an octopus-like shape. Aesthetics aside, it is Patek Philippe's first watch with an alarm function and is powered by a new, sophisticated movement.

This year, Patek Philippe improved upon its predecessor, removing the travel time function and adopting a simpler design, abandoning the cumbersome double-crown adjustment system. Aside from the removal of the travel time module, the basic movement's functionality remained unchanged.

This raises the question: how much does the best product actually cost? Or more precisely, how much are consumers willing to pay for a watch that—on paper—seems only slightly better than others? However, after close examination, you'll find that the 5322G's performance far surpasses its competitors.

A Camera-like Box
In 2017, Patek Philippe launched the World Time Minute Repeater Ref. 5531, introducing a completely new case design. This model combined skeletonized lugs with case sides decorated with a Clous de Paris pattern (or "clamping"), remarkably similar to the knurled texture of adjustment knobs on vintage cameras. In 2022, this design element was applied to the more affordable Calatrava Ref. 5226.

The design language established by this timepiece subsequently spawned a small sub-collection in the brand's catalog, including the Calatrava Annual Calendar Travel Time and last year's Eight-Day Calatrava ref. 5238.

The 5322 model introduced a new complication to this case style. Like the minute repeater slide of the aforementioned world time watch, the pusher for toggling the alarm also retains the classic wave pattern, making it one of the most detailed pushers in the industry. Patek Philippe cleverly refined this by reintroducing skeletonized lugs, which are actually part of the case back and completely separate from the top of the case.

The 5322 model measures 41 mm in diameter and 12.22 mm in height, slightly smaller than the soon-to-be-discontinued Alarm Travel Time, but follows Patek Philippe's long-standing approach to more modern sizing, even as other brands tend towards smaller sizes.

It features only one crown and one pusher, which together set the time and activate the alarm. Despite being a chiming watch, Patek Philippe claims a water resistance of 30 meters. Water resistance ratings are often vaguely defined, and many brands are overly cautious, but Patek Philippe states that you can wear this watch, along with all its other water-resistant timepieces, for diving.

The dial base is made of brass, embossed with a texture inspired by vintage cameras. After being painted green, the dial is rotated and sprayed with black lacquer, creating a uniform smoked effect. Thanks to the clear and legible digital display, the alarm is accurate to the nearest 15 minutes. While slightly less precise than a standard alarm, few alarms achieve such accuracy, resulting in greater flexibility and a significant advantage.

Furthermore, it features a 24-hour alarm function, distinguishing between AM and PM, and displaying the time in a window below the digital display. A bell-shaped cutout above indicates whether the alarm has been activated.

Streamlined Movement The Grandmaster Chime, launched in 2014, was Patek Philippe's first watch with an alarm function, which works by triggering a minute repeater two minutes before the set time. The AL 30-660 movement is Patek Philippe's first and, to date, only basic movement in watch size to feature a traditional independent alarm complication.

For such a complex timepiece, its operation is remarkably simple. Pressing the crown into place and rotating it clockwise winds the alarm barrel, while rotating it counter-clockwise winds the timekeeping barrel. The watch itself is automatic, but the alarm barrel is not and must be manually wound before use. Furthermore, a "fully wound or not wound" mechanism ensures that the alarm will not sound if the mainspring barrel is not fully wound.

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Pulling the crown out one notch adjusts the alarm forward or backward. Pulling it out another notch brings the crown to its final position for bidirectional time adjustment. At this point, the movement stops for precise adjustments. Unfortunately, the date cannot be quickly adjusted via the crown. This is achieved using a lever hidden between the lugs; although Patek Philippe has improved this design in recent years, many models still retain this feature.

This watch is driven by two mainspring barrels—one for chronograph function, automatically wound by a central rotor; the other for the alarm. A star wheel in the alarm mechanism triggers a hammer strike as the mainspring barrel releases, ultimately controlled by a centrifugal regulator. The alarm is wound via the crown and locked by a lever until the set time arrives.

The alarm system unlocks when the slots on the two cams align. One cam has only one slot, located on a wheel that rotates once every 24 hours. For example, if the alarm is set to 10:00 AM, when the hands point to 10:00, the cam rotates, causing the unlocking lever to fall into the slot. This is sufficient to start the alarm, but to ensure the alarm fires only at the correct time, Patek Philippe has added an unlocking cam. According to Patek Philippe, this cam has four slots and rotates once per hour, ensuring the alarm fires 10 seconds after the selected 15 minutes.

This alarm clock chimes at an unusually slow frequency, approximately 2.5 times per second by default, while most alarm clocks chime dozens of times per second, partly because they use the chiming itself as a braking mechanism. Even Patek Philippe alarm watches produced in the early 20th century chimed much faster.

The main difference between this 5322G model and other alarm watches lies in its black polished hammers striking a circular gong, much like a minute repeater. This makes its alarm sound more melodious and gentler than other alarm watches on the market.

Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm Watch

Ref. 5322G-001 (Blue Dial)

Ref. 5322G-010 (Green Dial)

Diameter: 41 mm
Height: 12.22 mm
Material: 18K White Gold
Crystal: Sapphire Crystal
Water Resistance: 30 meters

Movement: AL 30-660 SC
Functions: Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Date, 24-Hour Alarm
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power Reserve: 42-52 hours

Strap: Fabric-patterned composite strap with white gold buckle.